By Sharon Oliver
Contributing Writer
SAUGUS – After William and Madeline Wong purchased The Mandarin House restaurant in 1958 and changed its name to Kowloon Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge, a new standard in dining experience was set. And it became a Boston-area Route 1 landmark with its 15-foot-tall tiki statue looming over the A-framed doorway. Families, friends and colleagues have been enjoying food served in themed dining rooms like the Hong Kong Lounge, the Mandarin Room, the Thai Grille, the Tiki Lagoon and the Volcano Bay Room ever since.
A pop culture and culinary standout
A large menu of tasty Cantonese, Polynesian, Sichuan and Thai dishes gave the legendary restaurant recognition as one of the best Chinese restaurants in New England by Boston television station WHDH in 2004. Kowloon has also been nominated for addition to the Inventory of Cultural and Historical Resources by the Saugus Historical Commission and in 2001, the Wongs were inducted into the Hospitality Hall of Fame by the Massachusetts Restaurant Association. It’s also reputed to be the largest Chinese restaurant in the United States.
It takes six kitchens which specialize in separate cuisines to satisfy all those hungry appetites that come through the door. With a capacity to seat 1,200 customers, outdoor dining spaces, a drive-in movie theater and a thatch-roofed tiki bar, the restaurant has attracted customers near and far. Notable celebrities like the late comedic actor John Witherspoon, Anne Hathaway and Forest Whitaker. Jerry Seinfeld, Frankie Avalon and Phyllis Diller performed on stage in the restaurant’s second floor comedy club room during the early years of their careers. Everyone from prominent athletes to politicians and radio personalities have dined at Kowloon.
A top destination
Located on U.S. Route 1 along “restaurant row,” the eatery is hard to miss with its kitschy exterior. Recently, Kowloon has expanded its operation by partnering with The Brook, a sports betting and casino in Seabrook, New Hampshire, with a new dining and nightlife spot called 9 Dragons. Aside from bringing along their familiar culinary creations, 9 Dragons features a multitude of dining areas, an exclusive private event space, and an elevated cocktail lounge named “Forbidden City” where signature cocktails like the “Year of the Dragon” Mai Tai are served and shareable scorpion bowls are enjoyed. The lounge is also set to play host to regional and national DJ talent.
Andre Carrier, CEO of The Brook told NBC Boston, “Everyone who has grown up in this part of New England has their Kowloon memories, it’s an iconic restaurant. It is an absolute privilege to be part of this project that will add a new chapter to the Kowloon legacy and create a place where many more wonderful memories will be made.”
The landmark restaurant is considered a top destination for fans of tiki culture and has long been a stop for organized tours. Owners of Kowloon know how to set a mood by providing waterfalls, volcanoes and a ship deck, complete with faux palm trees, masts, sails and suspended lifeboats, transporting guests into an island-like atmosphere and their outdoor concert series is unmatched. The restaurant is even the subject of a short film, “Kowloon!” released this year.
Bob Luz, President and CEO of the Massachusetts Restaurant Association told Eater.com, “Kowloon is one of the most iconic restaurants in not only Massachusetts, but all of the Northeast, quite honestly. I mean, there’s nobody that’s traveled the Northeast that is unaware of the Kowloon and its importance in the history of food and beverage in the greater Boston area.”
Kowloon is one of the last remaining old-school businesses on this once neon-filled strip of highway. The vintage hangouts that used to thrive on U.S. Route 1 in greater Boston are slim to nil. Two strip clubs, The Golden Banana (northbound) and Cabaret Lounge (southbound); Prince Pizzeria (southbound); and Kowloon (northbound) are almost the only places left. William Wong died in 2011, but the third generation of the family continues to run the business.
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